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Routing and Painting Sign Foam

We have been fairly successful in selling routed SignFoam signs. However, our method of painting seems very time consuming and labor intensive. We first rout the raw foam then seal and paint the entire piece the background color. We then apply the border and raised copy color by hand using a foam brush. This takes a lot of time and invariably leads to drips and runs that have to be touched up etc.

Has anyone had success painting the sign blank the raised copy and border color, covering the blank with a mask material, routing through the mask and, painting the background with the mask still in place. We don't do sandblasting in my shop but, I think this is the way sanblasters do their signs.

I would appreciate any tips to include type (brand name) of mask used, how to avoid the router bit clogging up with adhesive and mask material (maybe type and brand of router bit used) and any other information that could be helpful.

Thanks!!

Comments

Anonymous says: Sounds like time to experiment. I would be interested to know the results of such a test. I am looking at router tables for a new location now. posted on: Wed, 04/26/2006 - 11:02am
Anonymous says: T ...

Try 'painting' the foam first and then using Anchor
Continental medium tack #117 or #120 over the painted surface.
Letters already painted when you pull the mask up. Make
sure it's good and dry first.

Mark

posted on: Thu, 04/27/2006 - 12:50pm
Anonymous says: I have done quite a few carved sign foam signs. Sign foam is much easier to paint than precision board ( less pourous). We prime and paint entire sign. Are you using a primer designed for sign foam like ...

I have done quite a few carved sign foam signs. Sign foam is much easier to paint than precision board ( less pourous). We prime and paint entire sign. Are you using a primer designed for sign foam like Jay Cookes? It helps if you do. We do not mask any thing. We do not have a problem with dripping. We only use one shot paint for lettering and artwork. It is time consuming but, that is why you charge more.

posted on: Fri, 04/28/2006 - 11:44am
Anonymous says: Rob what kind of paint do you reccomend on the main part of the sign before you use one shot? do you ever use wood anymore, and what kind of paint would you use on it? posted on: Fri, 07/14/2006 - 10:07am
Anonymous says: when doing incise carving on h.d.u. we first surface the material with a 1.25" surfacing bit. we then prime the blank with porter acrishield flat white. we then finish out the panel using ronan background ...

when doing incise carving on h.d.u. we first surface the material with a 1.25" surfacing bit. we then prime the blank with porter acrishield flat white. we then finish out the panel using ronan background enamels. next overlay the panel with gerber "gerbermask 1" if you finish the panel out with a waterbased paint then use the "gerbermask 2" which has a higher tack. be careful with the gerbermask 2 because if you don't have a good paint bond it will pull it up in places. next we rout through the mask and then paint or guild the letters as necessary.

if we are doing a standard background rout we throw our blank on the table raw and rout away. paint the thing with a bruch then use a 4" foam roller or a foam brush on the letters. with a little car you won't have much touch up if at all. patience and practice is the key.
michael

posted on: Thu, 09/14/2006 - 6:49pm
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