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How would I go about making an ADA sign with a paper insert slot and a digitally printed background. We have a routery engraver, router, the raster braile dots and digital printer.
SharonToji says: Here's how you make a paper insert sign. Design the sign preferably so that there is an area at the bottom with the tactile numbers and braille. Then create the area for the window insert. You can put ...
Here's how you make a paper insert sign. Design the sign preferably so that there is an area at the bottom with the tactile numbers and braille. Then create the area for the window insert. You can put a header strip along the top, wide enough for double faced tape, or if you want, you can put a border around the entire "window." Again, be sure the side borders are wide enough to hide tape -- at least 1/4 inch.
Cut out two matching blanks, one from clear, non-glare acrylic. For the backer, you can use something less expensive, like Sintra, or regular "glossy" acrylic rather than the more expensive clear non-glare acrylic. We use 1/8 inch thick pieces for both the front piece and the backer. Put the tactile characters and raster braille in their places on the front piece.
Then, on the back, mask off the area that will become the "window." If there is to be any design, such as a logo or other graphic element, apply it to the reverse side of the front piece. Spray paint the front piece on its second surface in the desired color.
After it dries, remove the mask, and apply double faced tape around the window, leaving one side open, and around the other sign edges. Be sure to put the tape somewhat away from the edge of the window so the edges of the insert will not show. Put the back piece on. You can paint it if it will be left without an insert from time to time and you don't like whatever color you have used (usually black or white.)
If you want to use a concealed installation and don't want to add another backpiece, you can install the backpiece directly on the wall, using recessed screws, and then, using a jig, fit the front piece onto the backpiece.
The insert should be cut slightly larger than the "window" so that it fits loosely against the tape barriers. Use paper that is slightly heavier than 20 lb. If the sign will be outside, you will need to use something waterproof, or perhaps laminate the paper insert.
I hope this wiill guide you through OK. I really advocate using tactile numbers and making as many signs as possible as insert signs. So often, people think they know what functions rooms will have, and think they will remain that way, and then they need to change them much sooner than they thought. This is practical, and it's also "green."
Here's how you make a paper insert sign. Design the sign preferably so that there is an area at the bottom with the tactile numbers and braille. Then create the area for the window insert. You can put a header strip along the top, wide enough for double faced tape, or if you want, you can put a border around the entire "window." Again, be sure the side borders are wide enough to hide tape -- at least 1/4 inch.
Cut out two matching blanks, one from clear, non-glare acrylic. For the backer, you can use something less expensive, like Sintra, or regular "glossy" acrylic rather than the more expensive clear non-glare acrylic. We use 1/8 inch thick pieces for both the front piece and the backer. Put the tactile characters and raster braille in their places on the front piece.
Then, on the back, mask off the area that will become the "window." If there is to be any design, such as a logo or other graphic element, apply it to the reverse side of the front piece. Spray paint the front piece on its second surface in the desired color.
After it dries, remove the mask, and apply double faced tape around the window, leaving one side open, and around the other sign edges. Be sure to put the tape somewhat away from the edge of the window so the edges of the insert will not show. Put the back piece on. You can paint it if it will be left without an insert from time to time and you don't like whatever color you have used (usually black or white.)
If you want to use a concealed installation and don't want to add another backpiece, you can install the backpiece directly on the wall, using recessed screws, and then, using a jig, fit the front piece onto the backpiece.
The insert should be cut slightly larger than the "window" so that it fits loosely against the tape barriers. Use paper that is slightly heavier than 20 lb. If the sign will be outside, you will need to use something waterproof, or perhaps laminate the paper insert.
I hope this wiill guide you through OK. I really advocate using tactile numbers and making as many signs as possible as insert signs. So often, people think they know what functions rooms will have, and think they will remain that way, and then they need to change them much sooner than they thought. This is practical, and it's also "green."
Sharon Toji