In more than 250 full-color photos, this book covers, in step-by-step format, the techniques used by the world's leading signmaking experts to fabricate the kinds of signs commercial signshops make every ...
Signmaker Brian Loker works his mojo on some HDU
By Brian Loker
The request for this project came to me in the best way possible -- the customer saw a sign I'd fabricated next door to his shop, and he liked it so much that he called me. When I asked if he wanted a 2-D or 3-D sign, he responded, "What's nicer?'' I couldn't help but laugh at that one! The sign had to incorporate the company's existing logo against a woodgrain background. After receiving my deposit, I produced two color renderings of the sign, and the project was on its way.
Blast off!
My substrate for the sign was 18-lb. Sign Arts Products Corp.'s Sign·Foam® high-density urethane (HDU), which I sanded with 180- and 220-grit sandpaper to get a smooth surface on which the sandblasting mask would stick. When this is done, it's very important to clean off the surface with compressed air, or else the blasting may not adhere. This could create an antiquated look, which is not appropriate for this type of sign.
Next, I laid out the borders, graphics and letters that would be raised off the background. On smaller jobs, I cut everything I can at one time with the plotter -- letters, borders and the like. Because this sign was large, I proceeded in steps.
I first measured out and drew the borders onto the foam, found my center point and applied the computer-generated letters. After that, I added the borders, using an X-acto™ knife and a straight edge to cut the mask (I used |2422| regular-grip). I used a roller to apply pressure and get good adhesion.
To cut out the shape of the sign, I used a Sabre saw with a fairly fine blade, which I kept vertically straight so as not to get a crooked edge. I made sure the material hanging from the foam was minimized. This can break before your cut is completed and cause complications. Next, I sanded the edges and cleaned up inside corners and cuts with a chisel.
At last, it was time to blast. I used a handmade grain frame because I could place my wires in random spots to produce a natural-grain look. A big diesel-powered compressor powered the sandblaster. It's really important to have a strong air source -- trust me, I have endured the agony of using a smaller compressor for sandblasting.
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